There are many adjectives to describe Madagascar and the feelings that a recent 14 day tour provoked. Unique, stark, amazing, overpopulated, and diverse are a few that come to mind. For us, travel in Madagascar was frequently a blend of wonder and frustration. The Island's natural history was delightful and charming. Our inability to speak fluent French detracted from fully appreciating the Malagasy people, their culture and interacting with our natural history guides. However, in retrospect, we would never trade our experience.

The "Great Red Island" offered us opportunities to experience ecosystems with plants and animals found nowhere else in the world. We first thought of going to Madagascar after meeting Peter Ginn, our guide on a birding safari in Zimbabwe. Peter discussed the possibility of an "exploratory" trip. Madagascar had long been on our list of exotic places to visit, so we quickly had Peter put our names on the list. Leaving our husbands behind, we headed for Johannesburg to meet Peter.

Our Madagascar adventure began with an overnight stop in the capital city of Antananarivo or "Tana". We had to admit that this was a rather startling introduction to the country. We were not prepared for the crowded streets, traffic noises or the dilapidated buildings. Arriving after dark added to the dismal nature of the city. We were happy to leave the city when we flew to the dusty, “desert” town of Tulear on the southwest coast of Madagascar. A van ride over a sand track brought us to a beach resort and the desert's Spiny forest. This is one of the unique ecosystems on the island. Hikes through the thorny vegetation gave us outstanding views of the dominant species, Didieras, which were interspersed with Baobabs and Pachypodiums. Our guide flushed out many bird species which included the Sub-desert Mesite, Long-tailed Ground Roller, Running Coua, and Sickle-billed Vanga to name a few. This location could have entertained us for more than two days. Snorkeling opportunities here provide a diversion for non-birders.

After leaving the Spiny forest, we traveled back toward the capital over some of the most amazing roads ever encountered. Some of the potholes were large enough to engulf a small car! We were traveling through the dry western grasslands where the end of dry season burning was at full pace. The long ride was well worth the next stop which was a hike to a natural pool fed by a waterfall. As we birded on the hike to the pool or piscina naturale, we saw our first lemur, the Ring-tailed Lemur. By now our group was well versed in spotting the ubiquitous Madagascar Bulbul, a nondescript and uncharming bird! The remarkable rock formations were notable here. Onward we traveled through a maze of roads constructed by wandering vehicles during the last wet season, to the reserve of Ranomafana.

Our destination was a beautiful national park and one of those unique lodges visited on the trip, the Domaine De Nature. Each bungalow was perched on stilts on a steep hill overlooking the river below. We spent several hours birding from our balconies before visiting the reserve, an amazing contrast to the grasslands and the spiny forest. To our delight, we observed several species of lemurs including the charming Mouse Lemurs. Of course, the birders in our group were fascinated by paradise flycatchers and a sleeping pair of greenbuls. The drive north from Ranomafana brought changes in habitat for both animals and people. Homes were two story mud stone covered with a stucco finish. Carved balconies added interest to the architecture.

The 7 hour drive to Perinet passed through captivating highland scenery as we headed for the Mormizaha Reserve. At the Mormizaha reserve we were not disappointed by the birds we were able to find. Although not easily seen, the Pitta-like Ground Roller was a highlight. Our lasting memories of this reserve will be hearing the eerie call of the Indri from our beds at dawn; a wet, sleepy Long-eared Owl, the diminutive Mouse Lemur, the orchid garden decorated by the blooming Comet orchid, and heavy smoke drifting through the forest.

Our final stop, Ampijoroa Forest Station, was visited on a overnight camp out complete with gourmet meals prepared by the traveling camp cook. The night forest walk revealed sweet smelling night blossoms, lemurs, and sleeping pygmy kingfishers. An unexpected find here was two species of tenrec. This is a curious endemic animal which resembles a boot polisher made of natural brown bristles. We fell asleep to the howling lemurs above our tent. It has been over a month since we returned and we are still pondering all we saw.

We know our trip was enhanced by Peter and the other tour participants. Our companions' easy-going nature smoothed the rough spots by adding humorous commentary at just the right moments. This can be one of the rewards of group travel. Adventure travel is not unfamiliar to us, so we were prepared to expect the unexpected. The mechanics of the trip were well planned by Peter, but the Malagasy people and the transportation system move to a different beat. If you are the kind of tourist that expects five star accommodations and every detail of a trip to go as written in an itinerary, then maybe this trip is not your style. If you are ready for adventure travel and the serendipity that often accompanies it, then sign up now! Madagascar is a land with many treasures, unique plants and animals, and birds to make any birder's heart palpitate. For the armchair traveler, a video or book will do, but to truly capture the essence of Madagascar, one must go there.

Karen Hunter and Ann Henson
Longmont, Colorado, USA